


Then I cruised up to check out the middle and north end. It was definitiely much bigger down there. Then a nice 5-6' right peeled through. Followed by a few closeouts. Here are a couple of pictures:


After seeing these waves with nobody out I thought it was worth running back to get my board. The tide was pretty low (1-2’) but it was rising with a high around 12:30PM so I thought the shape could improve some. So, I took out my 6’3” shortboard. The paddle out was pretty mellow, probably had to duck under two 4’ waves and made it out. Immediately I caught a couple of head high waves that closed out pretty quickly. The seaweed attacked me, you know when it gets wrapped around your leash. Then there was a bit of a lull and I seemed to keep on getting pulled out. Once I got inside enough I caught a few nice head high lefts and rights. I got slammed by an 8’ set. Then caught another couple and had to run off to work. I’m sure once the tide filled in that it got a bit better.


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